Knew Concepts Fret Saws:
The swivel adjuster is designed to swing the rear of the frame out of the way. The ability to set the frame into a "neutral corner" frees you to saw across extra wide boards while maintaining a natural grip. It swivels 45 ° degrees either left or right for the right-handed or the left-handed user with a lock at the “straight ahead” position.
A tension lever allows a quick release of the blade for replacement or placing the blade through the start hole for scroll work.
A skip-toothed fret saw blade for wood and comes with your new saw.
The blades have a little extra space between their teeth, which makes them clear sawdust and other sticky things better than standard blades. They enable tighter turns and more detail.
Fret saw blades are created to a standard length of approx. five inches (four inches of teeth to cut), so different types of blades, i.e. metal cutting blades, will fit your saw.
Specifications
Size #7 Skip Tooth Blade
- Sold in packs of 12
Maintenance
· A drop of oil on the swivel mechanism of your saw will allow you to adjust the angle of the blade smoothly (don’t get it inside the blade clamps)
Tips:
· these timber-cutting blades come with 0.5mm sized teeth, but if you look closely, you will see at each end, the teeth start at 0.1mm and graduate to full size after 4 -5 teeth to enable an easy beginning to your cut
· the blades can be mounted for a pull-cut or a push-cut. Ensure the teeth are set in the frame for a pull cut, this will tension the blade to keep it straight
· Keep your grip very light; this will let the saw and blade do the work and will enable the control necessary for a straight cut (if there is difficulty holding the standard handle there is a Slip-on Foam Comfort Grip accessory
· When starting the cut, mount the saw to the timber, have most of the blade visible on the side facing your body and push gently this will create enough of a kerf to keep the saw in line
· Saw using all the blade, (you pay for it, so get all the value) this will work in four ways: it will slow your cut times to about 15 seconds for a one-inch distance, this will keep the blade cooler (heat is the enemy of sharp), give time to adjust for a more accurate line and ensure longer lasting blades, you should not be breaking blades, replacing them only when they become blunt
· Cut a straight line parallel to your scribe line and 2 mm to the waste side; this will allow enough material for the chisel to chop an accurate baseline
